I grew up with Bird’s (powdered tinned custard mix), which is such an English institution, it even has a page in the excellent and inspiring Platinum Jubilee Cookbook. Though hot custard seemed to fall out of fashion for decades — it was all about cream instead, which I found baffling — custard is what I grew up with and still believe is best over many hot desserts. In particular, it is ideal with fruit pies such as rhubarb, its creaminess a complement to the sweet tang of the fruit.

Not having a tin of Bird’s in my pantry (I shall have to investigate getting some, but they don’t seem to stock it any longer in my local Publix), I’m happy enough to make custard from scratch (even though my mother never did). But custard is about the moment: you don’t want it for later. It’s a ‘mix, pour, and discard’ sort of item. Since I am conservative with my fridge and pantry stocks, I only want to make enough to suit two people of an evening — if it’s just hubby and me. Here’s my recipe. Note that vanilla is a nice addition, either through vanilla sugar or through adding extract (I like vanilla, so I use both).

What to avoid: lumps and a burnt bottom: keep the element temperature low at first, and stir often.

What to aim for: a rather thick, richly yellow sauce, which pours easily while hot (when cooled, it forms a skin, which you will want to skim off).

For more custard, simply double the recipe: 1½ cups milk, 3 egg yolks, 1 Tbs sugar, ¼ tsp salt, etc.

CLASSIC ENGLISH HOT CUSTARD

¾ cup milk (I use 2% or semi-skimmed)

1½ egg yolks.*

1 tsp cornstarch OR 2 tsps all-purpose flour, if you have no cornstarch

½ Tbs vanilla-infused sugar + ⅛ tsp vanilla essence (extract) OR

½ Tbs granulated sugar + ¼ tsp vanilla essence

⅛ tsp fine salt

*This may seem awkward, but all you need do is separate the second yolk from the white, slip the yolk onto a regular spoon, and then cut it in half with a knife. The cut part will slide into the bowl with the other yolk, and you can cook the remaining whites and half-yolk for breakfast — or give to the dog!

Warm the milk gently over very low heat and stir in the cornstarch or flour until well blended. Whisk the yolks into the milk and add the sugar, salt, and vanilla essence/extract.